lover of (in no particular order): goats cheese; corgis; cooking; friends; family; coffee; long walks; being a doctor (the bumbling kind); books
Sunday, 31 July 2011
sky-flipping-dive
Saturday, 30 July 2011
beautiful Bay of Islands
There were only 2 other people on the Stray bus – Nils and Stephanie from Germany. Our bus driver was a lovely chap with a deaf daughter and a coeliac wife (what are the odds?!) He was very entertaining and knowledgeable about NZ and the Bay of Islands in particular, and the Maori legends. We stopped to look at the oldest kauri tree in the area (800 years old, though there are ones older than Christianity!)
and then again in Whangarei for coffee. We also made a stop in Kawakawa to look at the toilets. Yes, the toilets. I have to admit that these are indeed some gorgeous toilets – designed by some crazy Austrian dude, Friedrich Hundertwasser. They have old glass bottles for windows which gives a decidedly pretty light, and they just look wacky. Best place for a pee ever.
After Kawakawa it wasn't much further to Paihia, where we were staying in the Base hostel (I know, I never thought I'd set foot in another Base hostel either – this one isn't even in the Rough Guide! But Nils and Stephanie were staying there and I succumbed to peer pressure like a sheep. Baaaa.) Our dorm isn't that bad though, ensuite toilet and mini-kitchen. And there's only 3 of us.
We had about half an hour to unpack our stuff before it was time to dash out again on our dolphin tour! This was seriously awesome – the weather didn't look fantastic at first, but it brightened up when we were out on the water; I was actually warm! Even on the top deck of a boat! We struck out into the bay (via Russell, NZ's oldest town and one with a decidedly wicked reputation in its earlier days – sounds a bit like Tortuga, that place in Pirates of the Caribbean where Captain Jack falls foul of various prostitutes. Anyway Russell has gone from a salubrious drinking hole to a rather pretty if slightly dull place.) Once in open water, everyone commenced looking excitedly for dolphins – this took a while, and I was starting to think they'd never materialise, and was eating my grody day-old peanut butter and banana sandwich (see, I can economise on food when I have to....) when all of a sudden there they were!!
LOADS of them!!! just bobbing up and down in the water and gracefully waving their dorsal fins at us! We'd been hoping to swim with them (the 3 of us, no-one else on the boat was nutty enough to swim in the winter) but they had a couple of babies with them. If you swim with the babies they get all excited and play with you, and forget to feed from their mothers (which they normally do every few minutes, to stay warm – small surface area: volume ratio innit) and thus get really cold and maybe even die. Obviously I would rather watch a baby dolphin being cute and doing backflips than risking its cuddly little life to swim with me – so I was very happy watching them all! They played about with us for about half an hour, then when the boat took off, they chased the wake for a couple of minutes which was fantastic to watch!
We hared about the Bay for the afternoon, watching seagulls, sailing through a rock with a hole in it, and visiting some seals who were lying about on a rock sunning themselves (they very much reminded me of a gentleman of my acquaintance who enjoys his afternoon garden kips in the sunshine...) Took lots of photos and basked in the warmth, then disembarked at about 5pm. It was a beautiful and relaxing afternoon. Mmmm.
We were too tired to get up to much in the evening – went to the Base Pipi Patch nightly BBQ, where the nice man v. kindly gave me an extra steak because the sausage wasn't gluten-free :D and we got a free glass of wine. It turns out Stephanie doesn't like beer, despite being from Bavaria (!!!) so she kept me company drinking the wine! After watching a few hilarious attempts at karaoke, I decided it was bedtime and went off for a shower and another all too short kip.
We were up at 6am again getting ready for the Cape Reinga trip. To my horror, the kitchen wasn't open until 7am when reception opened (you have to go through reception to get to the kitchen. Damn fool layout if you ask me) and my carefully-planned bacon and egg sandwich went out of the window. I resorted to a banana and a hastily-toasted bit of bread (in the 10 mins I had between the ktichen opening and the bus leaving. Never was there such dedication to the noble breakfast. Unless you count David King's excellent handcarved potato smileys.)
Our bus driver for the day was an immensely likeable ginger Rob Brydon lookalike. He kept us supplied with a steady stream of banter and a running commentary which I didn't really hear, but it mattered not one jot because I was so busy looking at the gorgeous scenery. The weather was excellent and the surroundings jaw-droppingly beautiful. We stopped to look at some more kauri trees in Manginangina (I laughed at this name, I'm ashamed to admit) and they were beautiful but not as impressive as our 800 year old friend from the day before. We stopped in ?Taipi for coffee at a nice little bakery (with sadly no gluten-free provisions, forcing me to recourse to almonds and white chocolate with my coffee) and to grab our last provisions before embarking into “the wilderness” as Rob Brydon alarmingly called it.
Ninety Mile Beach is fantastic stretch of sand actually only 64 miles long, but I suppose “Sixty-four Mile Beach” doesn't have the same ring. It is quite fantastic to barrel along at 100km an hour along the water's edge – only the special tour buses can really do it safely, as ordinary cars tend to get stuck. It was seriously beautiful and we were all gawping out of the window for a good long while! We eventually stopped for photos...
and to turn cartwheels (ahem, only me) and generally run about on the beach, before setting off for the sand dunes 15 minutes further along. Here we did SANDBOARDING which is incredibly fun! (and cheaper than skiing). You climb up an angina-inducing hill, lie down on a bodyboard, get Rob Brydon – who happens to be a mad sandboarder and does running jumps downhill!!! - to give you a push, and away you go at terrifying speed down a 45 degree slope. You can kind of steer with your feet, and slow yourself down with your feet (though this gives you sandburn and severely exfoliates your toenail varnish). In general it's far more fun to have your feet up and your face in a rictus of fear – I think I was only going at 15 kph, if I heard correctly, but man it feels fast when your face is very close to a lot of sand and you feel you could easily end up with a mouthful of it.... I rapidly became addicted and ran up that hill about 4 or 5times to whizz down at speed, before it was time to depart again! Rob Brydon gave me a high five for my enthusiasm.
We stopped for lunch at a beautiful bay – unfortunately I didn't realise this was the last chance to swim and really wish I had – I had my bikini with me and the water wasn't prohibitively cold; in fact, positively welcoming (compare that to Brighton in January!!) Alas, I'll have to wait for the Coromandel/Devon/Singapore for my dip.
Our final stop was Cape Reinga which was INCREDIBLE. It was a beautiful walk from the carpark down to the cape itself, and you can see the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea meeting in lots of little whirlpools!
On the way back we stopped at a place selling ancient kauri wood products. Kauri trees are now protected so you can't chop them down and use their wood, but they keep finding really old kauri trees in swamps: waste not, want not... I was almost seduced into buying a kauri-wood chopping board (about $200), and had to walk away very quickly and distract myself with coffee and icecream (about $4, far more economical, though a less lasting souvenir).
The last stop on the way home was Mangonui, where everyone except me had fish and chips. I bore this with equanimity because of my yummy f&c in Auckland last week, and also because I was still full from the icecream....
We got home at about 6pm, bade an emotional farewell to Rob Brydon, and then something very strange took hold of me, walked me up to the Base reception and booked me to do a skydive from 16,000 feet tomorrow morning at 10am.
Yikes.
We'll see how that one goes.
Tuesday, 26 July 2011
Waiheke weekend
Hello! Sorry for the hiatus in updates – been too busy/tired/couldn't be arsed! Last weekend was lovely – I explored the market in the morning and faffed about doing laundry etc in the afternoon, then James picked me up to take me to his and lucy's for dinner and to meet Holly. Holly is the cutest black lab/fox terrier cross you ever saw, and made me miss Luna a LOT. Awwwww. Some brilliant food – not what Dad would expect from dinner at a cardiologist's! Excellent NZ lamb, a beautiful flourless chocolate torte and lots of tasty wine. Yum yum. After a lovely evening (mainly spent talking about Newcastle medical school, various doctors we all knew, Jesmond life, the excellence of Skype, and how much James misses M&S prawn mayo sandwiches) James dropped me back off at my hostel amd I went to bed very grateful for all the nice doctors in the world!
The next morning I was up earlier than I wanted to be on a Sunday, to catch my ferry to Waiheke Island for the WINE TOUR! The ferry was rather fun, drinking coffee and reading the kindle and admiring the scenery (whch was a bit drizzly). It brightened up later on though, when I got to Waiheke and met Wayne, who was my wine tour guide for the day. There were a couple of Aucklanders on the tour as well. I keep hoping to meet like-minded lone travellers of about my age being all food and wine-geeky, but I think most normal people of my age are spending their money on going out partying.. alas. Also it's winter so it's quite quiet – apparently the whole of Auckland decamps to Waiheke and the Coromandel in the summer, at Christmas!
Had a great morning being driven about sampling wines from Mudbrick, Kennedy Point and Cable Bay before going back to Mudbrick for lunch. My companions decided to go back to their accommodation for lunch, leaving me with the terrifying prospect of eating lunch in a rather posh restaurant by myself …. fortunately it turned out not to be that bad, and a friendly little bird came and perched on the chair opposite me, so I had a dining companion of sorts, albeit a rather twitchy one who didn't speak English and flew away at random moments.
I had a delicious starter – not even sure what it was – and then ordered the fish of the day which was blue nose, with roasted kumara.
Oh my word – it was just beautiful. And because I was on a wine tour I went for some Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc (my new weakness). Went the whole hog and got orange crème brulée for pudding, and it was beautiful too (to look at and eat...) and all gluten free, even the wee tiramisu tower!! how amazing.
After coffee my driver came to pick me up (you can tell I'm loving playing the posh lady, oui?!) and there was time for a quick stop-off at the art gallery before heading to catch the ferry. I walked back to Parnell to clear my head hic and then spent the evening slobbing about.
On Monday I was convinced I had gout after all the rich food and alcohol, but it turned out to be a transient foot pain... By Wednesday I had diagnosed myself with melanoma because of a small itchy mole on my finger, which put all thoughts of gout out of my head. (Don't worry, is just the regular hypochondria....)
This week I've mainly been watching as many cardiology procedures as possible, as well as going to ward rounds and James's murmur clinic. I watched angiograms and angioplasties (stents) on Wednesday pm, and a biventricular pacemaker (or CRT – it's a treatment for heart failure) on Thursday morning. Thursday afternoon nothing was happening, so I googled gluten free fish and chips, found a fsih and chip shop near the Green Lane clinic, got on the hopper over, walked for about 45 mins and finally located this place at 711 Manukau Road. Manukau Road is possibly the longest road in Aucjland, and DEFNITELY longer than Welbeck Road....I arrived to find that the place was shut, but undeterred, sat down and read my kindle for the half hour before they opened. Then I went in and had a fantastic snapper, with chips and mushy peas.
Oh my goodness. Fish and chips in NZ are really very good -they fry the stuff as and when you order it, so it's fesh and crispy and awesome! They really do not undertand the soggy British fish and chips, and I can see why.... my batter was REALLY crispy and the snapper excellent and lemony. Yumyum.
Having disgracefully scoffed all that down, I waddled back along Manukau Road and into One Tree Hill park, which is gorgeous. I worked off the f&c with a steep climb up the hill, to discover a massive obelisk but no tree. (the settlers chopped down the original one in 1863, and the two pines planted there afterwards were damaged by a maori protester and the last was removed in 2002. no trees. Weepweep)
Good views though:
Adroitly managed to catch the last hopper back to Auckland City, then walked back through the park to the hostel. My friend caroline arrived frm wellington (she is a friend of Paula's from work in Galway) and we had a lovely catch up over a cuppa. She's flying home for her brother's wedding in August. Then I was off to bed to get my head down for 6 hours! For the Bay of Islands weekend! Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee.
Saturday, 23 July 2011
Happy birthday Daddy-o!!
Wednesday, 20 July 2011
settling in in Auckland
As I write this in the cosy living room of City Garden Lodge, there is a log fire crackling away and I have a plate of peanut butter cookies cooling, and squash and chicken roasting in the oven. Ahhhh, life is good. I am also now exceedingly popular because of said cookies. Oh the joys of baking in hostels!
So I am feeling more settled now I've had a chance to do the nesting thing; before I felt like I hadn't stopped and sat down anywhere for ages! Queenstown was very tiring... and then I was busy here too! And we all know how much I like my chillin' time...
I got to Auckland on Sunday evening, got my shuttle to City Garden Lodge and was overjoyed to find my (all-girls' at last) dorm had an unoccupied single bed - i.e. a non-bunk bed. With a bedside TABLE and LIGHT. Oh my days. Immediately claimed it, gloating over my unimagined riches....
(You get a bit weird about these things after travelling for a while.)
Didn't do much on the first night apart from locate corner shop for crisps and chocolate to go with my reheated pizza from Winnie's, Queenstown - yes I am disgusting - then shower and crash for the best 9 hours sleep ever. I even did my duvet-nicking trick and was a cosy warm bug in a rug all night... mmm.
On Monday I ambled through the park (the Domain) on a glorious sunny morning to meet the elective co-ordinator lady. She got me set up with the internet/library card (oh how I laughed at the idea of actually taking books out of the library, ho ho ho. I mean, I'm on my ELECTIVE here...) I was then pointed in the general direction of Auckland City Hospital, where I headed to get my ID badge and then finally meet my supervisor, who is a lovely chap. I got this placement through his wife, who was a colleague of my haematologists before she emigrated. He's a Leeds boy who went to Newcastle to train and then moved to NZ about 3 years ago in search of warmer weather. I can safely say he's found it - for the depths of winter, Auckland is TOASTY. I layered up far too much on my walk in, because I was used to Queenstown, and ended up shedding clothes rather quickly.
(I've been lucky with the weather so far: blue skies and barely-there fluffy white clouds; apparently it's due to change this weekend, so have booked my wine tour already, just to make sure I'll be indoors and tipsy most of the time).
Everyone on the ward is really really nice: the registrar is incredibly friendly and let me do a joint aspiration on my first day! Although sticking a needle into some poor bloke's swollen knuckle isn't really my idea of fun, it was good practice at injecting local anaesthetic. Alas I got no aspirate, but there was none to get anyway. Probably gout.) I've also been trying to listen to lots of murmurs - getting a couple but still not very confident with the spazoscope. Will persevere.
(Unfortunately am getting to the point where I really can't be bothered with medicine – I think this is the point at which most smart people will be heading to the other half of their elective i.e. somewhere hot and beautiful. Have no idea why I elected to do 2 placements in NZ... though it's really not that bad, despite being winter. Sorry for whinging - am just really craving a bit of beach-slobbing and coconut suntan lotion. That or more skiing.... Also travelling alone is OK but as I've been moving round a fair bit in the last couple of weeks, I haven't really had the chance to meet anyone properly, and this leaves me really craving the company of awesome friends – the kind who have exactly the same travel priorities as me: coffee, wine, food, culture, sleep. Haha. I'm looking at you Weatherdon... big dissertation love btw.)
On Monday night I went to see Cat and Tess at their hostel - they're in Auckland for a couple of days before flying to Vanuatu - and had a couple of drinks. It was lovely to see them, and we arranged to go to the SkyTower the next night. This was fantastic - dining at 190m, you see some pretty good views.... food OK (some excellent salmon) and the wine made up for the slightly rubbery mussels.
Upon my return I Skyped home which always cheers me up, though you pay for the internet here by the byte, so no video calls, just chat. Humph. However have found lots of wireless hotspots, including the library... so will be frequenting those!
All in all not much to report, sah – though I did have an interesting evening in Parnell on Monday trailing around the supermarket (which is actually in central Auckland, a fair walk) and unsuccessfully attempting to locate gluten-free soy sauce. Most people of my acquaintance will appreciate the single-mindedness with which I track down vital ingredients. You cannae have stirfry withoot soy sauce.... so I tried the Asian supermarket next door with no joy – they had a whole aisle of soy sauce but the ONE bottle of tamari had gluten in. Jeebus. With a deepening sense of despair I began the long walk back up Parnell Road (it's even longer than Welbeck Road) and stumbled into some kind of small posh shop selling pretty much everything gluten-free you could ever want. I actually became emotional and probably scared the girl behind the counter with my squeaks of joy at the discovery of the tamari...
The stirfry was a good one btw.
Now off to serve me up some roast chicken, veg and Ian's tasty red cabbage with wine and spices! and more of this Mission Estate Syrah. obviously.
(Photos of Auckland life to follow once I get back to the library to put pics up on their unlimited internet!)